Dear Sympathetic Reader,
Vegan cookies are their own animal. Had to learn that.
As I am a vegan convert rather than born and raised, my brain is wired to think to look to the recipes I’ve always gone to for direction to sate my hunger for cookies—the trance-enducing hunger that rears its head from time to time like a wave in much the same manner as I suspect Homer Simpson’s grumbling midsection forces him into zombie-like quests for donuts… “Need…to…eat…cookies…”
Meanwhile here’s the rub — substitutions are not equal. Vegan butter does not equal dairy butter. Neither cornstarch and water, nor applesauce, no matter how hard you try to convince me, will ever equal the consistency of egg. This came from a bit of trial and error that started not a bit of mocking in the kitchen by those who doubted the existence of the moist, delicious vegan cookie.
In fact, at one point, after an unfortunate series of baking fiascos consisting of a cookie that rose to great heights and tasted like bland bread, and another recipe which seemed to melt, spread and harden into taffy, I felt that I may be at a loss. In fact, memories of horrible vegan bakery purchases at the health food store at the corner, including a chocolate bar with the consistency of taffy and the taste of plastic, came into mind. How could something that looked so decadent taste so similar to my husband’s infamous case of “flour cookies,” in which he had supposedly “purposely forgotten” to add any sugar. Could it be the inside joke of this particular health food store to create the most sumptious-looking treats they could that also tasted the worst one could possibly imagine? I could envision e-ville-moustached bakers laughing in the back room: “Ha! Suckers!”
Well, those were my thoughts for a moment until they were erased by remembering the many delicious vegan cookies I’ve had at bakeries both in NYC and upstate including at Body & Soul at Union Square farmers’ market, Vegan Creations at Troy farmers’ market (http://dishanddirt.blogspot.com/2006/08/at-farmers-market-vegan-creations.html), and even at the NYC chain Birdbath Build A Green Bakery (http://www.yelp.com/biz/birdbath-build-a-green-bakery-new-york). Ones which made me wonder if “regular cookies” could even match at how good they were. And that was the problem. I was thinking of “regular” and, well, the opposite, a place which I positioned vegan cookies to exist…the island of misfit cookies.
The solution was not substitution, but to rethink the frameworks of what cookie dough was, a shifting of “I’m baking this cookie I know and know what to expect,” to “I’m baking a cookie and I don’t know what a cookie is…yet.”
The result of this lesson was the realization that neither butter and egg nor their substitutes are required in a cookie at all. In fact, I have found that when the substitutes are missing in the recipe, that the results are the richest, moistest delicious batches. Take for instance a recent Peanut (or Walnut) chocolate chip cookie, which at its base was almost 50 percent peanut butter (1 cup) and 50-or-so percent the other items of peanuts (handful/can also put in crushed almonds or walnuts ), semi-sweet vegan chocolate chips (handful), flour (1/2 cup), vanilla extract (2 tbsp), dash of soymilk (1/4 cup), baking soda (1/2tsp), baking powder(1/2tsp), salt (pinch)—to make 9 large-sized cookies. Another recipe called to grind up almonds and peanuts to create a base and no flour, butter or eggs.
Cookies with no flour, eggs or butter? Yes. And as an added benefit, it also made for great salmonella-free bowl-licking. Sweet.
Here are some books that might be helpful, but online is a trove of many cookie recipe blogs.
http://www.amazon.com/Vegan-Cookies-Invade-Your-Cookie/dp/160094048X
http://www.amazon.com/Vegan-Cookie-Connoisseur-Delicious-Recipes/dp/161608121X
It really only takes half an hour to make cookies from scratch to finish when in a pinch. But I thought I’d share the piece of news that my college friend (thank you, thank you!) gifted me a truckload of divvies for the holidays (http://www.divvies.com/)…which my husband and I are happily plowing through quite efficiently. Perhaps even little Oscar will get a taste for dessert…molasses ginger vegan treat anyone? Something that even a toddler in midst of his “no, no, no” binge can’t refuse. (Yes, he is still stuck there).
Happy Holiday Baking!
Yours,
AKC